Our first view of the Black Rock Lighthouse was from the Harbourville beach. I almost overlooked it as I took in the nearby cliffs and looked back into the harbour, which was higher than where I was standing and where fishing boats were sitting on mud, rocks and shells. If the fellow were sitting on my shoulders, we would still both be underwater when that tide came in — just an amazing thought. But then, as I continued to surveil the area, I saw it: off behind distant rocks on a point of land, the stark white colour contrasting with the blue clouds of the oncoming night, a lighthouse! Of course, we had to go take a closer look!
We went the next day, a day that started off with rain that made the fellow want to write the day off. But stormy clouds on coastline? He needed an education! As the rain turned into fog, even he started appreciating the magic. There were moments when I thought the sun would burn the fog away before we got to Black Rock beach, where this lighthouse lives, but then the fog would move back in with more determination.
The lighthouse here was established in 1848 and was originally a square wooden building in which the lighthouse keeper lived, with the light tower being a 3-sided bow window. The lighthouse we see now is a 10.4 meter white cylindrical fiberglass tower that replaced the original lighthouse in 1967. The stripe patterns of lighthouses help distinguish them from each other from a distance, helping sailors and fishermen know what they are looking at from off shore.
When we got to the beach itself, it was hot and sunny where we parked the car. The fog was coming in waves. It would thin for a bit, then would be so thick that we couldn’t see very far down the shoreline: the rocks would just merge with the whiteness. Looking out into the Bay of Fundy was like looking into a wall of white.
Walking from the top of the beach down to the waterline was like walking into air conditioning. The sun was shining and hot on the car: the bottom of the beach was enveloped by the coolness of the fog that was fighting with the sun for victory.
In front of the lighthouse was an amazing flat rock. The stone was warm from the sun, which offset the chill from the wall of white that was preventing me from seeing the fishing boat working from just off shore. Occasionally the fog lifted just enough for me to see the buoys marking the nets, but it was never enough for me to see the boat.
It was an amazing experience to sit on the warm rocks and watch the shoreline come in and out of focus as the tide came in, causing more of the shoreline to disappear. You can take your bright, sunny days!
You may also be interested in our Harbourville Nova Scotia travel video.